We scheduled an early pickup from the Four Seasons hotel we were staying at (hah!). Abby ate breakfast right through her 45 minute FaceTime session with Ema.
We had a car and driver and the plan was to go the Phong Nha national park (continuing back North) with a stop around the old North/South border and the Demiliterized Zone (DMZ). I never got a good shot of the mosaic that runs the entire length of the main road in Hanoi, but here's another fantastic one:
The main thing we wanted to see was the Vinh Moc tunnels just inside the north side. It's one of a number of complexes of underground tunnels bored through the soft limestone that the locals and North side military built as a strategic defense, re supply depot and place to live for the locals who were being constantly shelled during the American war.
If you've seen the war movies like Platoon, where the tunnels are really small, just underground and carved out of dirt, those resemble the Cu Chi tunnels in the South (Mekong Delta), whereas these tunnels were deep - some 10 meters, some 15 and some as deep as 30 meters.
Abby and I went down the far entrance called #3 (there were 10 or so entrances) and made our way down steep stairs. It was pretty comfortable but I was glad it was only Abby and I so we could move at our own pace. For the most part, there are dim lights every 15 meters or so, but it was good that
Abby also had a head lamp. Some of the "go this way" signs were missing, so the first exit we took we came out on to a causeway built above a huge beach (which was beautiful). We walked down the causeway looking for a way out and finally found another way in to the tunnels. I'm usually glad for my sense of direction and this time also glad for watching Robin play Minecraft as I sensed tunnels we had already covered and found an exit that led up instead of down to the beach. Ahh... Fresh air!
Beth and Robin were in the museum, having just begun watching a historical documentary on the area and war in general, then the Vinh Moc tunnels in particular. Though I'm sure it was 10% propoganda, it was amazing to see how galvanized the resistance to the U.S. was, and how they could engage seemingly everyone in the resistance effort. Seeing and hearing footage of the underground villagers singing while bombing raids happened above ground really reminded me of the Whos singing while the Grinch struggles to get his huge sled of stolen presents up his mountain.
Beth has been laughing at the kids dozing in the car transfers, but even the best of us can't last forever...
By about 3pm, we,got to Phong Nha Farmstay - a unique hotel that was started by an Aussie and his Vietnamese wife a few years ago. We heard about it from Melly, Brian and Papa, and so far their description was good - it's kind of a little paradise in the middle of a fantastic setting. There's a nice little pool that we were in five minutes after checking in, then the kids relaxed in their hammocks... Eat your heart out Uncle Steve!
Tomorrow we have a day trip to the National Park which sounds good. Looking forward to chilling out hear for a couple of days before we end our trip to Northern Vietnam with one last night in Hanoi.
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